Install Your Own Glass Tiles
Installing glass tiles is not exactly building the world’s tallest skyscraper. Any serious do-it-yourselfer with the proper tools, and the right attitude, can handle the job. Apart from the obvious advantage of saving on contractor’s fees, you will also be able to brag to your family and friends that you created that beautiful, colorful, and dazzling kitchen or bathroom wall and floors.
Once you have measured the area you want to tile, computed for the number of tiles you need, and decided which of the various available tiles you want, you will need to consult with your supplier which type of mortar is suited with your chosen tiles. Not all tiles and mortars are created equal so do not forget to ask, otherwise you might end up with tiles falling of the walls or loosening from the floors.
Before beginning your work, clear the area of furniture, appliances, or any other obstacle. If there are electric switches or outlets, turn them off at the breaker and remove the plates. Clean and dry the area where you will be installing the tiles, making sure it is stable and free from moisture. If the tiles will get wet, as in a kitchen backsplash or in the bathroom, be sure the cement substructure is covered with a waterproof membrane. Also, in order to prevent the glass tiles from cracking, the substrate must be fully cured before installation. This normally takes 28 days from its pouring.
Locate the center of the floor or wall. Your first tile, or set of mounted tiles, should be centered at this point. From here you can proceed to “dry fit” the rest of the tiles to verify if they end at the edges with the same size. If the tiles at the edges need cutting, use a tile cutter for small tiles or a wet saw for bigger ones. If you don’t own either of these, they can be rented at local home improvement stores.
Use a notched trowel to apply mortar to the cement substrate. Limit the area applied to about 2 – 3 square feet to avoid having the mortar dry out before you are able to place the tiles. Apply mortar to the back of the tiles using the flat side of the trowel for an even coating.
Place the tiles on the mortar, along with the tile spacers. If you notice any of the tile edges sticking out, you can use a mallet to hammer on them until they are even. Let the mortar cure overnight.
Remove the tile spacers and mix the grout according to its instructions. Apply the mixed grout to the tiles using a rubber float angled at 45°. Any excess grout left on the tile surface should be wiped off with a wet sponge. Apply caulk to the edges of the tiles where they meet the wall or floor. If it is a wet area, use mildew-resistant caulk.